Clear Skin, Clear Answers: 6 Adult Acne Questions You’re Dying to Ask a Derm

Surprise! Acne isn’t just for awkward teenage years and yearbook photos you’d rather forget. In fact, a whopping 85% of Americans will experience acne at some point — and adult acne is having a moment (uninvited, of course). U.S. consumers spend $3 billion annually trying to send those pesky pimples packing. But here’s the twist: while acne may be teen-famous, its adult version has been crashing the party, especially for women in their 20s, 30s, and even 40s and 50s. Hormones, anyone?

Enter Dr. Blair Murphy-Rose, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skincare Junkie — a clean, non-toxic skincare line she developed after spotting a major need in her own practice. Basically, she got tired of recommending products with questionable ingredients, so she created her own. (Cue the skincare superhero music.)

We sat down with Dr. Murphy-Rose to get the real tea on adult acne — from what it actually is to what’s lurking in your makeup bag that might be making it worse. Let’s dive in.

1. So… What Is Acne, Really?

Think of acne as a big umbrella term that covers a whole squad of troublemakers: blackheads, whiteheads, papules, pustules, cysts, and nodules. They love to hang out on your T-zone (forehead, nose, chin), but some get adventurous and travel to your chest, back, or even your scalp (yes, scalpne is a thing).

Fun fact: Blackheads aren’t actually full of dirt — they’re just oxidized oil and dead skin cells that turn dark when exposed to air. (Kind of like a banana left out too long.)

The science-y scoop: hormones trigger your oil glands to go into overdrive, which invites normally chill skin bacteria to mutate into inflammation-causing troublemakers. Dead skin cells can clog your pores, and voilà — breakout city.

2. What Causes Adult Acne? (Spoiler: It’s Not Just Dirty Skin)

Acne doesn’t discriminate. It’s caused by a cocktail of internal and external factors:

• Inside job: Hormones (hello, periods, pregnancy, perimenopause, menopause), genetics, and bacteria.

• Outside influences: Heavy makeup, occlusive skincare, pollution, stress, booze, sugar, dairy (especially skim milk!), and even your vitamin B12 supplement. Rude.

And yes — stress and hormones make everything worse (because of course they do). Plus, using products that clog your pores can create a perfect storm. Look for keywords like:

• Non-comedogenic

• Oil-free

• Won’t clog pores

• Non-acnegenic

It’s skincare code for “I won’t betray your face.”

3. Wait, What Does “Non-Comedogenic” Actually Mean?

Great question, skincare detective. “Non-comedogenic” means a product won’t clog your pores (a.k.a., it plays nice with acne-prone skin). “Comedogenic” ingredients, on the other hand, are party crashers that sneak into your pores, set up camp, and leave a mess.

Example: Vitamin C is an antioxidant darling that brightens and boosts collagen. But it’s often paired with vitamin E (tocopherol) to improve shelf life — and vitamin E is, unfortunately, highly comedogenic. Translation: glowing today, breaking out tomorrow. 

Stick to oil-free, silicone-free formulas with ingredients like salicylic acid (a pore-dissolving legend) and skip the pore-cloggers like lanolin, talc, parabens, and artificial fragrance.

4. Is Exfoliation My Friend or Foe?

Good news — exfoliation is your friend, but only if they respect your boundaries.

Gentle exfoliation helps remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, fade dark spots, and even shrink the appearance of pores. But go too hard with scrubs or overuse, and you’ll end up with irritated, angry skin that’s prone to even more breakouts. Womp womp.

Dr. Murphy-Rose recommends chemical exfoliants over physical scrubs (think: salicylic acid and polyhydroxy acids instead of walnut shells and loofahs). Her Skincare Junkie® Pore Therapy Daily Toner Pads combine salicylic acid with hydrating hyaluronic acid for clear, happy skin — even if your skin’s on the sensitive side.

5. What’s the Deal with Salicylic Acid?

This beta hydroxy acid (aka BHA) is your breakout-fighting BFF. Salicylic acid works by diving deep into your pores to dissolve oil and gunk — kind of like a tiny Roomba for your face.

If you’ve got dry or sensitive skin, start with a low concentration (0.5% or less) to avoid irritation. Used properly, salicylic acid can prevent new breakouts while helping existing ones heal faster and fade away without drama.

6. What Do Derms Really Recommend for Acne?

For mild acne, over-the-counter options can work wonders. But if your breakouts are stubborn, persistent, or just not playing fair, it’s time to tag in the pros.

A dermatologist can take a closer look at your skin, your health, and even your hormones. They might suggest treatments like:

• Topicals: Retinoids, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or sulfur.

• Prescription meds: Oral antibiotics, spironolactone, or isotretinoin.

• Lifestyle tweaks: Better sleep, less dairy and sugar, stress management.

The Skincare Junkie Philosophy: Drama-Free Skincare for Grown-Up Skin

We believe skincare should be safe, effective, and — dare we say — fun. Every product in the Skincare Junkie lineup is dermatologist-developed, pregnancy-safe, vegan, cruelty-free, and free of all the shady ingredients you don’t want (we’re looking at you, parabens, SLS, and artificial fragrance).

Whether you’re dealing with hormonal breakouts or just want a more glow-up, less blow-up routine, we’ve got you.

Your skin deserves better. Give it the science-backed, non-toxic TLC it craves — no drama, just results.